Who needs a load of coal?

Well, I did and with some Aster kits, you need to make your own. I believe the Aster K4 had a dummy coal load provided, but making your own can be so much more gratifying. I have made them for coal hoppers on my 0 gauge set before, so I had some small sized pieces of coal. While the pieces will be a bit large for this model, but you can always break them down smaller, if it bothered you, by using a hammer. I think it still looks fine the size they are and besides, breaking it down can be messy and you have to have something to collect all those small pieces.

I had to decide which material to use for the bed which will be placed atop the fuel tank covering the needle valve and fuel filler cap. Be careful here when fitting things as there is a small breather tube near the needle valve which is uncovered. I placed a small piece of scotch tape over it during my fitting phase as I chose to use Styrofoam for both it's light weight and mold-ability. Remember to remove that tape after your fitting process if through.

I bought a small sheet of Styrofoam up at my local craft store. About 3/4 inch thick.
You may have something lying around from a shipping container, but I wanted something flat and also thin. I made a paper pattern which followed the contours and slop of the tender's coal bay. Then I traced the layout on the styrofoam board. You can either use a cutting device which is a heated wire for cutting (less mess, but more fumes) or you can use a hobby knife/box cutter. I had the latter so I carefully cut out the pattern. I then used a lighter to burn and also melt the small pieces of foam so it would not continue to shed each time it was moved. I also used the lighter to burn some dimples in the top of the load so it would not be perfectly flat when I applied my first layer of coal to it.

After checking the fit, I cut a small loop of thin and flexible wire to feed into the foam for a way to lift the coal load out of the tender when needed. Then I painted the whole piece with a matte black spray. After drying, I covered the bottom of the foam in clear packing tape. If the load were to ever break, it would not be in two pieces and it will stop any small pieces that might fall of the bottom from entering the breather tube.

Now it was time to glue on the first layer of coal. I was reminded by David Leech to not use a water soluble glue as being outside under rain could prove disastrous for your coal load. I chose a multipurpose glue for all weather conditions, or so it said on the bottle. I chose something which would dry clear as well, like Elmers does. It is called WELDBOND and is non-toxic.

After applying a layer of glue I sprinkled the coal down and allowed it to dry. When dry, you can turn the load upside down and the pieces that did not stick can be gathered up and used for the second layer which will add more realism to the coal. Now it is a matter of personal preference on how to continue to build the load of coal.

For now I am satisfied with my coal load and can always tweek it a bit if I so choose.