On my mind

Ever have that "one" thing on your mind and until you sorted it out, you could not think of too much else? Well, not to that extreme, but one thing about building the cylinders had been on my mind. Since that is the next step in my process of constructing the Aster Mikado, I had to have a trial run. On some of the Aster Mike kits, the cylinder studs were a bit short and as you sandwich the cylinder, valve assembly together the threads on top came up short when attaching the nut atop to fasten everything together.

I don't know for certain whether or not I have short studs, but one threaded side of the stud is longer than the other. According to the assembly diagrams, the longer threaded side goes into the cylinder body with the shorter threaded side, separated by a smooth shaft, sticks out atop the valve plate and the nuts go on here. Well, if I have the longer side in the cylinder and I assemble everything together, there is not enough threads to protrude above the plate to give the nut threads to attach to. If I reverse the studs, then there is too much threads atop and it would interfere with the cylinder shrouds later on in the building process.

The two options here are to get the correct length of studs replaced by Aster, or thread the studs in then take them out enough to give more threads on top. I chose the latter option. I was given the advice to add some loctite to the bottom threads so that when I attached the nut on top it would not pull the studs out when tightening the nuts. I chose to go another route. After seeing if the method would work, I chose to add loctite to the top threads and then put the nut on with the stud filling up all the threads in the nut so the stud body was flush with the top of the nut. I will let the loctite dry and what I have effectively done is create a bolt to screw into the cylinder sandwiching everything together.

The reason I did this was on account of every time I would try to add the nut, I would end up forcing one or more of the studs further into the threads in the cylinder body. Either way would be fine I guess, but I chose to do this method. After vacation when I lap the cylinder I can just put everything together and screw in the studs/bolt.

Update: Since doing this, I have taken those nuts off and cleaned up the threads. I'll use loctite 242 on the bottom threads which go into the cylinder block instead.

I measured the height the studs need to be (which is 12mm to give the nuts on top enough threads to be flush with the nuts after snugging them down). Thanks David.

Cooler water

In the spare time I have had, I painted the top of the tender's water tank. I used Scalecoat I "freight car red" which is a Pennsylvania railroad color that they used on freight cars as well as on the tops of tenders and cabs of the PRR locomotives (I'll be making this a PRR locomotive). I am told this is because it was a lighter color than the dark green locomotive enamel and allowed the water in the tender to stay cooler. Cooler water is better for the injectors which would take the water from the tender, mix it with steam and feed it to the boiler. I think it looks good too. I got the scalecoat paint in a spray can form from Weaver models. I partially followed their application instructions which called for baking the painted surface in an oven for several hours on a low heat of 175 degrees. I did 170 and only let it bake for 1 hour and 30 minutes as it was a very light coat on top of the factory paint. The scalecoat I colors are for brass and other types of metal. Scalecoat II is for plastics. So, if you are purchasing this paint, be sure to get the proper paint for what you will be using it on. I left the screws which attach the top to the tender black because I think it looks OK that way. I may change it later which should be quite easy.

I also have modified my coal load for the tender by crushing some smaller pieces and adding to the top for a more scale look.

after

before

smooth coasting

Well,

I assembled the chassis, well at least the drivers, coupling rods and horn stays.

After working through some kinks (again, no pun intended), the chassis rolled very smoothly. I was stubborn and did not use the method of using grease on the end of the screw-driver to hold the screw in place, so putting on those horn stays was really interesting and probably took longer than it should have, but I had fun. I used the mini-screwdriver that came with the kit and didn't have to make the modifications to the larger one like Marc Horovitz had to. It fit quite well in between the driver spokes.

I then secured both coupling rods. Funny thing is that when I had the coupling rods on one way, it would bind up, so I put the right one on the left side and the left on the right, and smooth rolling. I used machine oil from 3-in-1 (blue can) and looks and rolls real nice.

Now, I do promise that I am stopping now for the summer. I had to get this whole business of the coupling rods out of my system before I left for New York. I would like to take this opportunity to share a revelation I have had during this process. Here is a video clip of the chassis rolling along a length of track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBSkqvBHf9g

I appreciate when people who have "been there, done that" offer their advice. I really do. However, with that said, I feel that a few tips given to me had me worried needlessly. One was in the coupling rod's bushing holes. The fact that someone emailed me saying they had some issues gave me concern that I might get a similar experience. Well, the minute I opened up box 1 I saw the coupling rods and also noticed the bushings were drilled "off-center". OH NO! is what I thought. Well, as I found out both through experience and talking with a friend, those rods were the right fit. So, it goes to show that sometimes advice offered as a help, can sometimes lead to needless concern. I guess I have learned that I need to cross the bridge when I get to it, and not worry about it beforehand.

Either way, Hans and Aster were ready and willing to help, so I thank them. I also found that the cylinder studs I have are 19mm long which are longer than the ones supplied with some of the other kits which had "shorter" studs. Hans provided a clear picture for me showing the shorter of the two. I have the longer of the two. This again was concern born of "tips". I don't want to give the impression I am not thankful for people who offer their experiences, I am truly grateful.

Meeting good folks

In this hobby I have already met a lot of nice folks. People who are willing to help out a guy like me who is relatively new to live steam. I have learned a great deal over the past year by frequenting MLS.com, talking with people both via email and over the phone and seeing first hand live steam. Even smelling a coal fired live steamer thanks to Andrew.

My kit did not have a tender hand pump handle, which is used to reach down to the hand pump through the water hatch and work the pump. I mentioned this to a guy I met and talked with a few times, as he himself has built two Mikados, and he whipped me up a very nice looking brass handle on his lathe and sent it to me. I got it today. I hope I can repay the favor one day. Thanks Charles.

Loose the Binding

That was my next project. I needed to be sure I had the correctly milled coupling rods as I was told by Jeff Runge that I needed to be sure there was no binding and he had to work through a similar issue with one he assembled. So, even though my intention was not to commence the chassis assembly, I wanted to check for my peace of mind.

I put the Driver axles in the side frames and had to use a bit of oil to have them slide in a bit better. It is here where one must be careful to follow directions and diagrams to ensure the proper placement of the driving axles in their respective places in the side frame. Now was time to place the coupling rods on the drivers. Since this was only a "dry" run, I did not put the axle springs in or secure the rods with the hardware. However, I did make sure everything was where it would be had I done so.

Then I rolled it forward and it did move until a certain part where it would bind up. After consulting with people like David Leech, Jeff Runge and Hans, I was able to find the source of the binding. It was, to my relief, not the rods, but rather some tight fitting on the front most Driving axle. After some oil and some rolling back and fourth, coupled (no pun intended.....well perhaps just a little) with switching coupling rods to opposite sides, the chassis rolled very smoothly at just a touch of my finger. In both directions too. So, when I do assemble it later, I will file a bit of paint off of the frame where the axle will fit into. I carefully labeled the parts so when I put them back in the box and took them out later I would know the orientation that worked best.

Those cylinder studs won't be too much of an issue. I can always get some longer ones from Aster, or I could back out the threads a bit to give me more on top the valve covers which will allow for more threads to secure the retaining nut to.

Who needs a load of coal?

Well, I did and with some Aster kits, you need to make your own. I believe the Aster K4 had a dummy coal load provided, but making your own can be so much more gratifying. I have made them for coal hoppers on my 0 gauge set before, so I had some small sized pieces of coal. While the pieces will be a bit large for this model, but you can always break them down smaller, if it bothered you, by using a hammer. I think it still looks fine the size they are and besides, breaking it down can be messy and you have to have something to collect all those small pieces.

I had to decide which material to use for the bed which will be placed atop the fuel tank covering the needle valve and fuel filler cap. Be careful here when fitting things as there is a small breather tube near the needle valve which is uncovered. I placed a small piece of scotch tape over it during my fitting phase as I chose to use Styrofoam for both it's light weight and mold-ability. Remember to remove that tape after your fitting process if through.

I bought a small sheet of Styrofoam up at my local craft store. About 3/4 inch thick.
You may have something lying around from a shipping container, but I wanted something flat and also thin. I made a paper pattern which followed the contours and slop of the tender's coal bay. Then I traced the layout on the styrofoam board. You can either use a cutting device which is a heated wire for cutting (less mess, but more fumes) or you can use a hobby knife/box cutter. I had the latter so I carefully cut out the pattern. I then used a lighter to burn and also melt the small pieces of foam so it would not continue to shed each time it was moved. I also used the lighter to burn some dimples in the top of the load so it would not be perfectly flat when I applied my first layer of coal to it.

After checking the fit, I cut a small loop of thin and flexible wire to feed into the foam for a way to lift the coal load out of the tender when needed. Then I painted the whole piece with a matte black spray. After drying, I covered the bottom of the foam in clear packing tape. If the load were to ever break, it would not be in two pieces and it will stop any small pieces that might fall of the bottom from entering the breather tube.

Now it was time to glue on the first layer of coal. I was reminded by David Leech to not use a water soluble glue as being outside under rain could prove disastrous for your coal load. I chose a multipurpose glue for all weather conditions, or so it said on the bottle. I chose something which would dry clear as well, like Elmers does. It is called WELDBOND and is non-toxic.

After applying a layer of glue I sprinkled the coal down and allowed it to dry. When dry, you can turn the load upside down and the pieces that did not stick can be gathered up and used for the second layer which will add more realism to the coal. Now it is a matter of personal preference on how to continue to build the load of coal.

For now I am satisfied with my coal load and can always tweek it a bit if I so choose.

Thanks

I would like to add, that the way I was able to obtain this Kit was through a selfless act of kindness on the part of the individual who sold it to me. The seller was not necessarily looking to sell, but rather gave up their own plans for the kit. Thanks. I wish all those who are in live steam could share the joy of building a kit and seeing it come to life. I have built many model kits as well as architectural models and they were fun, but in the end, they could only be set aside for decoration or dust collecting duties. This kit is something which I will be able to take pride and joy from and share it with my family. I work with children and I will be able to share this with them as well and introduce them to the hobby of live steam. If you are pondering what to get for your first engine, or perhaps your "next" engine, why not try a kit if you have never built one before. I would buy any kit, no matter the manufacturer, if it were of this quality again. I can highly recommend Aster. Not because of the name, but because of the experience.

I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the people that have been of much assistance over the course of the last year which has been my journey into learning about live steam. mls.com has a page on live steam, which is where I learned a lot. People like Charles, Ryan, Semper Vaporo(charles), Jeff, David, Art, Mike, Norm, Jim, Harlan, Hans, Will, Rob,Dan,Tac,Andrew and many more I have not mentioned have helped me learn the ropes of live steam. Thanks guys. I hope to meet those I have not yet at a steam up one day.